MARK WOLDIN
Basque Country Tour Guide
To book a tour, call or email:
(+34) 660-976-422 Mark@BasqueTouring.com
Bilbao and the British Influence
Bilbao (Bilbo in Basque) is the Chicago of the Basque Country, the bustling post-industrial city that persists, by will and tradition, to be interesting and energetic. There is a spring in one’s step in Bilbao, a simmering energy that is expressed in various ways. Its architecture is more audacious than elsewhere in the region. Its centerpiece is now of course the Guggenheim Museum, but the opera house, the airport, Calatrava’s beautiful but controversial white walk bridge, the Bilbao Arena -- these projects are nothing to sneeze at.
 Bilbao's Dark GlamorBar Victor Montes in the Plaza Nueva shines golden from within like a jewelry box. The black facade and checkerboard tile floor are redolent of Bilbao's distinctive mood. |  |
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 |  Delicatessen and BarHams hang from the ceiling, bottles line the walls, more pintxos than you can count. Victor Montes. |
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There is a permanent opera company with a fine old hall. There are recitals, dance programs, and an orchestra as well. And of course there are pop and rock concerts, as Bilbao is the largest venue in the region.
The night life is very strong. People here, as they do everywhere in the country, love to stay out late in bars, talking (or shouting) over the din. Such is the disposition of a wine-drinking people. There are also clubs and discotheques later on. One hardly ever sees someone drunk, and never in a dispute, let alone a fight. Yet the energy in a Bilbao bar on a Friday night can compare to one in the biggest of cities.
Every Basque city has its one-week explosion of fiestas. In Pamplona it is the Fiesta de San Fermin; in Vitoria la Semana Blanca; Bilbao has la Semana Grande. It happens in mid-August. If you want a tranquil stay then schedule around it.
Some of the best soccer fans in the world root for Athlétic Bilbao. Athlétic is a holdout from bygone days: they still field a primarily Basque team. In the hours before a game la Poza, the main street leading to the stadium, fills with supporters. Everyone supports the club. The stadium is large enough to delight and intimidate, but not so big (like Barcelona or Madrid) as to carry a diffuse combination of fans with tourists and curious, occasional spectators.